How To Repair Scuffs On Bumpers

Fixing damaged plastic bumpers involves grinding, sanding, sculpting and painting. But it's worth the effort for repairs that would cost less than your deductible.

There oughta be a law: If there's a postal service in a parking lot—whatever post—it should be high enough to meet when you're backing up. Unfortunately, the law we unremarkably see applied is Murphy's, and the resulting trunk-impairment repairs will cost only a few dollars less than your insurance deductible. And that's precisely the scenario we were faced with after trying to maneuver our trusty Honda Civic out of a tight space in a crowded mall parking lot.

A lot of people would first endeavour to do what yous shouldn't: Head to the local motorcar parts store for some el cheapo body filler and a can of matching spray paint. Surprise! The applied science of auto torso parts has changed—and y'all'll need a completely different array of supplies to repair painted plastic parts than you would use to repair sheetmetal. Fortunately, there are a number of companies making repair and refinishing materials for plastic bumpers, every bit well equally plastic fenders and door skins made from sheet molding compound.

Scuff, make clean and prep expanse with plastic prep solvent to remove clay and oil, and promote adhesion.

Bumper Mechanics

Today, the actual "bumper" part of a front or rear bumper is invisible. The office of the automobile's structure that's used for saving the vehicle's body from damage is well hidden behind a fairly large semirigid piece of painted plastic. This plastic covering is designed to deflect and deform hands when bumped. The theory goes that you lot can run into it lightly and the plastic volition pop back into its original shape. Even so, actually wallop it, specially with a hard or sharp object, and the plastic will abrade, cut or tear.

Various carmakers use different methods of attaching these plastic bumper covers. Because they are held in identify with screws and tabs that fit into slots in the trunk sheetmetal, you may have to do some hunting effectually for all the fastening points of a typical fascia.

On our damaged Civic, for instance, there were screws behind metal caps near the body latch, as well as screws under the taillights and at the wheel wells. One time they were removed, we were able to slide the bumper'south tabs off a number of slots in the rear quarter panels. Expect for screws or bolts under the trunk carpet between the wheel and the rear bumper. You may also find fasteners hidden below or behind the bumper fascia.

Grind a "V" into the back of panel to remove loose material and give more than surface area for adhesion.

Fascia Facelift

You'll need a warm, dry identify to work because the repair adhesives and fillers cure within a fairly narrow range of temperatures. If you have the fascia off the car, you can work indoors—but non in the basement considering these chemicals tin can requite off some pretty noxious fumes. Read the labels carefully.

Non all plastic bumpers are made from the same stuff. Only with the fascia removed, information technology'southward easy to identify the type of plastic because it's stamped into the back side. Stamps of PP (polypropylene), PPO (polyphenylene oxide) and TPE (thermoplastic elastomer) indicate plastics that smear easily when ground or auto sanded. (Our Civic bumper is made of polypropylene.) Stamps of PUR (polyurethane plastic rigid) and TPUR (thermoplastic polyurethane elastomer) are plastics that powder when ground or sanded.

The type of filler you use to repair the bumper depends on the plastic type, and there are many unlike manufacturers. Consult with the counterman at the auto pigment shop for the appropriate products. While the specific make you use isn't critical, it is important that you lot stay with that same brand throughout the entire repair to be sure the products are compatible.

Regardless of plastic blazon, prepping the fascia is the same: Brainstorm past slightly scuffing the damaged area and cleaning information technology with plastic surface cleaner. If the bumper is cut or torn through completely, make sure to scrub the inner and outer surfaces. After rinsing and letting the surface dry, wipe the expanse with prep solvent. When wiping with this material, go in only one direction because going in two directions but drags contaminants back into the repair.

Thoroughly mix equal amounts of hardener and repair adhesive on a piece of cardboard or paper.

After the solvent has dried, sand the area past hand with 80-grit paper. Next, you'll need to class a "V" groove in the damaged area on the front and dorsum sides of the fascia. The grooves allow you lot to align the two edges more hands. They also provide more surface surface area for the repair material to adhere to.

For plastic types that powder when sanded, cutting the grooves with a 24-grit disc on a sander. For plastics that smear when sanded, make the grooves using a cordless drill and a rotary file. This gives you greater control and slower speeds to reduce the chance of oestrus-generated smears.

Spread plastic filler over the repair. Don't slop it on heavily or you'll accept more work later.

Repair tears and cuts from the back side of the fascia. If the cutting or tear is large, you might take to align and and then hold the edges of the repair with masking tape on the forepart of the fascia. Use self-stick fiberglass-repair tape to add structure to the cut or tear. Side by side, mix the adhesive and apply it over the record with a body-filler squeegee. When the beginning layer of tape is in place, apply a second layer so the threads run at a ninety-degree bending to the first layer.

Once the material has hardened (in about 20 minutes), move to the forepart of the fascia and remove whatever tape (if applied). Side by side, using 80-grit sandpaper, remove whatsoever cloth that has squeezed through, and sand any spots that are higher up the finished level of the fascia. Fill the cut or tear and any low spots in the front of the fascia with the advisable repair material, and squeegee it level. After it has hardened, sand everything level, kickoff with eighty-grit, then 120-grit, and and then use a light skim coat of repair fabric to fill pits and surface imperfections, and to restore the original contour. Then finish sand with moisture 400-dust paper.

Sand and contour plastic body filler with 80- and 120-grit, and so finish with 400-dust waterproof sandpaper on a rubber cake. Information technology will probably take two coats to restore contour properly.

PAINTING THE PLASTIC

When the repair is completed, apply two wet coats of flexible part sealer. After drying for xxx minutes, the fascia is ready for priming and painting. Once more, read the labels and follow the maker's recommendations for operator prophylactic—this stuff tin can be very toxic if inhaled. Modern primers and basecoat/clearcoat paints are flexible enough to accommodate plastic bumpers without peeling or loss of adhesion. Prime the fender with ii coats of any two-part primer-surfacer, making sure to let the primer dry out between coats. Once the primer has hardened, dry sand the repaired areas with 400-grit newspaper to level it and remove whatever imperfections.

Before spraying the bumper with basecoat, wetsand it and gently wipe the expanse with a tack rag to remove dust, then spray co-ordinate to the manufacturer's instructions. You may need to echo this procedure two or three times to cover completely. One time the basecoat is dry (commonly about 30 minutes), mix the clearcoat with hardener. Apply two medium clearcoats, assuasive each to dry in between.

Later on drying overnight, the fascia is fix to be reinstalled. Once it'due south in place, lightly wetsand the painted surface with 1500-grit paper to remove dust particles and surface paint imperfections. Avoid sanding through the paint by staying away from creases and seams. When done, dry the fender and wait for shiny areas, which indicate that more than sanding is needed. To bring out the luster of the pigment, employ rubbing compound on the cream polishing pad of a rotary buffing machine, still avoiding creases and seams. Get the final sheen using a fresh cream pad and polishing compound.

Before spraying the bumper with basecoat, wetsand information technology and gently wipe the area with a tack rag to remove dust, then spray according to the manufacturer'south instructions. Yous may need to repeat this process two or 3 times to cover completely.